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2. A "What I saw was incredible," remembers Dr. Paul Rutayisire, the director of the National University of Rwanda's Centre for Confict Management. "It was a completely destroyed country in terms of human lives, infrastructure, and government structures." He notes the enormity of the challenges that Rwanda faced. "For me, physical reconstruction is easy— building houses and roads. But the social fabric, the governance structures [were more diffcult] because every Rwandan had moved." But as years passed, fickers of hope shone. Many Rwandans who had fed during episodes of violence in the 1960s and '70s returned to their homeland in a show of solidarity. The RPF solidifed its leadership and control, emphasizing a national culture of unity and peace, while community efforts aimed at justice and reconciliation addressed issues at a local level. Slowly but surely, the country was putting itself back together and moving forward. Today, Rwanda's transformation, the result of years of sustained efforts, is visible everywhere. This thriving democracy boasts a newly acquired seat on the UN Security Council, as well as a parliament in which women hold a majority of seats. The World Bank ranked Rwanda as the most business friendly nation in East Africa in 2012, a refection of the country's pro-business and investment mind-set. In 2008, Rwanda became one of the frst countries in the world to ban all plastics a move that thrilled the conservation community while making Kigali one of the cleanest capital cities in the world. The government has even instituted a "reconciliation barometer" that tracks the country's progress in rebuilding social relations It is important to note that Rwanda's path to peace is not without the occasional setback, inevitable in a region where the power of armed militias too often goes unchecked. As Rwanda's economic and political transformation has taken hold, the international community has begun to look to Kigali for constructive leadership in the region. 1. Mountains surround picturesque Kigali, also one of the world's cleanest cities thanks to Rwanda's ban on all plastics in 2008. 2. Agaseke baskets symbolize love and peace. gorillas and beyond A lARge PART of RwANdA's RecoVeRy hAs iNcluded showcasing its unique tourist attractions to the world. The awe-inspiring Volcanoes National Park, where experienced guides lead visitors to mountain gorilla habitats, is undoubtedly the country's most popular site for international travellers, offering upclose-and-personal encounters with these rare and magnifcent creatures. But a host of other engaging sights and activities await curious explorers. Akagera National Park's hippos, elephants, giraffes, and zebras enchant safari goers, while Nyungwe National Park offers unparalleled bird-watching and the only forest canopy tour in East Africa. For those with an eye for art and design, Rwanda's traditional crafts will not disappoint. Agaseke baskets—tightly woven papyrus baskets with distinctive peaked lids—were once wedding gifts Spring 2013 . Tempus-Magazine.com 47